I make a small cutout on the white piece so I am able to see an important part of the finished image showing through from underneath, such as the nose and eyes. If that gets sent to the laser, nothing would happen, because there is no visible image. When I have my image ready to send to the laser, I cover the whole picture with a box (no borderlines) make it white. I always keep scrap pieces of wood, glass mirror and granite for that purpose.
If you do a lot of lasering you soon get to realise what the average brightness is for engraving, after that a little bit of experimenting and away you go. I used it directly in Corel which most of you have found out has 'issues' when it comes to dpi settings on pictures, it didn't cause me any problems on this piece as you can see. The Andromeda filters are just so damned easy to use, the example I posted is from a colour photo and all I had to do was sharpen and brighten it up. It was a forerunner to programs such as Photoshop and one of the leaders in it's day to most of the graphics packages around today. It's old (so am I) but I had learned it backwards and forwards so I still prefer using it even now.
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I do all my image work with Photostyler 2.0 which I bought when I was using Windows 3.1. Corel is a relatively easy program once you get used to the minor differences to other art packages so I always stick with it. When I was given the demo from Identify where I bought my laser, that was what they were using with results everytime, why change a good thing. I don't print anything to the laser from anything except Corel. That said, I do have CS3 and it is improving. Hi Larry, I don't actually like Photoshop that much, I find it to be over-complicated to get effects which I can do easier in other programs. With the new version of photograv coming out this is something that you should consider if you are on a tight budget. This is on a mirror (our nightmare usually) but results on wood are just as tremendous. Good result? I think it speaks for itself. 12 mins to engrave at 300dpi 33 speed 100 power. The whole 'processing' less than a minute from crop to laser. This is a picture of my neice Lucy, taken from a colour photograph doing exactly what I said above, only graphic work was to crop the photo. No brainer and simple to use with an excellent result. Choose your recommended settings for wood/metal etc and that's it. Result is a picture that is ready to send directly to the laser. Select any photograph, colour or otherwise, bump up the contrast and brightness, select Etchtone, alter the lines per inch to 300, choose extreme sharpening of 800,5 and click go. I recently got a new filter for Adobe Photoshop works just as well in Corel so no fears there. Well here is one straight out of the OMG folder.
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